Development of enzyme-based coloration and coating for sustainable machine washable wool to support the wool Industry transition to a circular system
(Grant Ref: POC03-Jul21-Shen-09)
Funded by Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council and Networks in Industrial Biotechnology and Bioenergy (BBSCR NIBB) Phase II: BBNet POC (Proof of Concept)
Project time frame: 1st October 2021 to 30th September 2022
Wool fibres offer extensive natural benefits such as thermal insulation, breathability and biodegradability. However, wool currently only makes up 1% of global fibre production due to strong competition from cheaper synthetic fibres. With increasing demands for sustainable textile materials, closed-loop textile circularity, and a reduction of negative impacts caused by synthetic materials (microplastic) damage to the environment, enzyme-based biotechnology could provide an alternative solution to improve wool fibre performance, including felting shrink-resistance during washing process and limit the impact of wool processes on the environment by reducing water and energy consumption, and effluent discharge.
Enzyme-based biotechnology in the current project will be used to develop a one-step enzymatic process to achieve simultaneous anti-shrinkage and coloration of wool fibres. The project will explore the extraction and application of wool polypeptides from waste wool feedstocks/post-consumer waste wool through an environmentally friendly method. Extracted wool polypeptides will be grafted back on to the surface of wool fibres to achieve machine washable wool by enzyme-catalysed polymerisation process. The innovative biotechnology will be developed to achieve machine washable wool by in-situ enzyme-catalysed coloration and grafting with polypeptides without the use of synthetic dyestuff or harmful chemicals. All the bioprocesses to be developed will be undertaken at low temperature, resulting in saving of energy and reduction of waste effluent. The process developed would enable the machine washable wool to remain recyclable due to no harmful chemical additives being used in the processing and no added-on synthetic polymer, contributing to a sustainable and closed-loop circular textile economy.
The project is led by Professor Jinsong Shen (PI) from Â鶹Íø and Dr Chetna Prajapati (Co-I) from Loughborough University, and supported by industry partners: British Wool, Fox Brothers & Co Ltd, and The Woolmark Company.